The thought of sticking your body’s smallest digits into a crack, twisting them in ways they haven’t evolved to twist, and then pulling your body weight up on them, obviously makes people queasy and dislike this type of climbing. With finger-width cracks, very small changes can make a big difference. Now, if we were to widen the crack by a few millimeters and again take our two climbers, we would find that our ballerina’s fingers would rattle inside the crack and she would have to use more difficult techniques to make them stick, whereas our lumberjack’s fingers would lock and jam easily. The ballerina climbs and dances up the rock, fingers locking and jamming with ease, whereas the lumberjack can’t fit a single sausage inside the crack and topples like a felled tree. The lumberjack has hands the girth of a tree trunk and sausage-like fingers. The ballerina has hands as thin as paper and fingers the width of matchsticks. One is a ballerina and one is a lumberjack. Just one millimeter larger or smaller can be the difference between a move feeling easy or impossible. Crack Climbing: The Definitive Guide, by Pete Whittaker.įinger cracks are one of the most fickle sizes, as a small variation in crack or finger size can make a big difference in difficulty.
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